{"id":2583,"date":"2019-11-26T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-11-26T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/2019\/11\/26\/gastronomy-is-the-nice-postcard-that-shows-us-off-to-the-world\/"},"modified":"2019-11-26T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2019-11-26T00:00:00","slug":"gastronomy-is-the-nice-postcard-that-shows-us-off-to-the-world","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/en\/gastronomy-is-the-nice-postcard-that-shows-us-off-to-the-world\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201cGastronomy is the nice postcard that shows us off to the world\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Carme\nRuscalleda<\/strong> (Sant Pol de Mar, 1952) is synonymous\nwith cooking, passion, vitality. We had the chance to speak with her in the\ngarden of Barcelona\u2019s Hotel Mandarin Oriental, about her life after closing\nSant Pau, the elements shared by both Catalonia and Japan, and the luck of\nfinding the right \u201ctravel companions\u201d to achieve professional success. This and\nmuch more, below:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tell us how\nit all began…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cooking and I have gone hand in\nhand ever since I was really little. I\u2019m the daughter of a farmer and a\nstorekeeper, so there are family circles where you need to help out sometimes.\nIt\u2019s normal for a little girl to be given chores to do, and even when I was\nreally little my mother and I agreed that I would do cooking chores, and that\nway I wouldn\u2019t have to do the sweeping. That\u2019s where a friendship with cooking\nbegan where I feel good, it pleases me and keeps me entertained. I have to say that a moment of personal growth came where I decided\nto take charge of the kitchen and do my own thing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When did you\nrealize that you had to make that change?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

My friends from Sant Pol de Mar were always telling us. At that time, I was thinking that I\u2019d never do it, no way. I saw it as a very complicated world, and I can tell you that it is, but in the end life itself led us there. When I got married to Toni, he came into the family store and both of us transformed it and really took it in a new direction. We went from having a store that was a grocery and also sold salted meats, to being a store that was more of a deli. Our customers were from the local area. We noticed that what they wanted was proximity and we were offering them more elegant cuisine with more details. At that time, we considered the option of putting tables in the store and offering late breakfasts or snacks\/dinners because we had business hours; we weren\u2019t a restaurant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

And at that time, the option appeared to buy the premises opposite the store…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exactly, fate gave us the option to buy an inn that was across the street from the store, with a sea-facing garden, and that was worth the same amount of money as the cost of the work we were going to do on the store. We thought about it sensibly and, in the end, we decided to set up shop across the street…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, this was\na decision that would lead you down one path or another…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Absolutely. It\ncame from 15 days. Sometimes fate intervenes and that\u2019s how it was. It was a\nreally exciting project. We were 36 years old and had all the support from the\nfamily behind us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A project that couldn\u2019t move forward without sacrifices…<\/strong> Absolutely. We were coming from a culture of effort and we\u2019ve applied this culture to our children. And when they were young, our children also played and worked like we did. You don\u2019t have to feel bad about getting into a family dynamic like this. It\u2019s like an athlete who has a foundation of stamina and that foundation means the work doesn\u2019t scare him. Instead, you\u2019re looking for work that motivates you to dedicate your life to it and that doesn\u2019t wear you out. As Confucius said: \u201cChoose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Where does\nthe creativity of your dishes come from?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It comes from non-conformism.\nFrom going back over traditional recipes. From taking inspiration from the\nlocal cuisine that you love and to which you attach great importance. There are\nfishermen\u2019s or farmers\u2019 recipes that already generate magical results, but with\nyour reinvention, they come close to gastronomic excellence. We\u2019ve always taken\ninspiration from traditional recipes, but now you look at them again in a much\nmore scientific, healthier, more gourmet, more aesthetic, and even more\nglamorous way. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do you think\nthat creativity is innate or is it something you can work on?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I think it has\nto go with the person\u2019s spirit. You have to be a curious person, creative with\nthe way of playing, and have a non-conformist spirit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How do you\nreach the pinnacle of gastronomy?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

You get there by convincing lots of people to go there with you. One person alone can\u2019t do anything. You get there by connecting with people that have the same sense of service. Those of us who devote ourselves to the hospitality industry have to please our customers because they have chosen us. They have to find the establishment clean, polished, freshly groomed. Spotless tablecloths, the glasses should not smell, they must be transparent. And what\u2019s more, the way of presenting your gastronomy has to match the story told by the dish. This entire human team you have behind you so that everything works moves you forward in this professional career. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So, the key\nis choosing the best travel companions…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exactly. I\u2019ve always looked to work with\npeople who are better than I am. If you work with people who are better than\nyou, they will be able to compete with you and compare your ideas to reach a\nhigher level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Why are there\nchefs who decide to stop once they reach the top?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, not too\nlong ago there was a very young chef who was fighting to reach the top, which\nwould be the third Michelin star, and when they give it \u2013 which I think would\nbe the best time to spread your wings and show off your talent \u2013 he decides to\ntake three steps back. I respect it but I don\u2019t understand it, mainly because\nhe\u2019s very young. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Does this\ncase serve to show that the world of gourmet cuisine is very demanding?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

They often ask\nme how you can live with the pressure of three Michelin stars. And I say it\u2019s\nreally easy if you feel the pressure from day one. When you don\u2019t have any\nstars. When the pressure goes along with you and it\u2019s your way of approaching\nthe work, you go to sleep searching for the solution for the next day. It\u2019s a\npressure that goes with you and without it, you don\u2019t move forward. By contrast,\nif it\u2019s a strategy and a work plan so that you get a great rating, you can\u2019t\nstand the pressure because you don\u2019t approach the work that way. In my case, I\nfeel the pressure just like I did on day one. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How do you\nlive without Sant Pau?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I live in a very\ndedicated way. When we closed, I explained that I\u2019d done a lot of mileage, 30\nyears with Sant Pau and 20 in the store. I\u2019m only human and I knew I would have\na dip, and I didn\u2019t want that to happen with Sant Pau open. Now I\u2019m living on a\npermanent vacation. In other words, with Sant Pau closed, Barcelona and Tokyo\nopen, and many other collaborations we do with schools and companies. There are\nweeks where I have something every day. I live happily, I learn lots of things,\nand the work I continue to do really entertains me. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What do you\ntake from all those years at the helm of Sant Pau?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I take a path full of\ncommitments, work, suffering, and sacrifice, but with successes and a\nconnection with society that I would never have found. It\u2019s been constant\nlearning and I get really excited seeing young people who started out with us\nand who remember their time at Sant Pau. I don\u2019t feel it with a sense of loss,\nor sadness, or tiredness, but totally the opposite. It\u2019s been hard but worth\nit. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Has your life\nchanged a lot?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It changed the\nday I decided to cross the street and I went from the store to the inn. There,\nI changed hours, friends, we no longer had the same free time, I slimmed down a\nlot. I couldn\u2019t sleep, I stopped drinking coffee. We were very daring and we\nwanted to do everything our way and we didn\u2019t hire anyone from the industry. A self-taught person is someone\nwho knows what they want to do but they don\u2019t know how they have to do it, and\nthey achieve it by always asking questions and making corrections every day. That\nhas been our path.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How does a\nfemale chef live in such a masculinized world?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

She lives by feeling like a\nfirst-class citizen, just like they are. Ever since I was very little, I\u2019ve\nfelt like a female individual in a world where there are men and women, and\nthat\u2019s really positive. We women sometimes put up a barrier that society itself\ndoesn\u2019t put up for us. The first person who has to believe in you is you\nyourself. Society demands the same thing from men and women, so you have to be\nas competitive as they are.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How did you feel when the Michelin stars came along?<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Michelin stars really matter. When the first one came (1991), it helped because the people who were criticizing us without having gotten to know us saw that we had a serious culinary offering. With one star they see you differently, and then when the first one arrives, you have to work for the second and when that arrives, you have to look for the third, and when you have it, you have to tell your team that even though there isn\u2019t a fourth, they have to imagine it and keep working the same way. We can never relax. If you do, you go down in quality and interest.\u00a0 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What appeals\nto you most about Japan?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve been there for 15 years\nand when they suggested it to us, we didn\u2019t have a very clear idea. It really\nwas a reward for perseverance. The person who suggested it to us knew that if\nwe set foot in Japan, we\u2019d be captivated by everything quickly: How they work,\nthe products, the way of setting up a space, the respect there is for\neverything. We discovered that they wanted us to offer local cuisine like at\nSant Pau, which was really exotic for the Japanese, with three main focal\npoints: bread, oil, and wine, three elements that are basic for us and exotic\nfor them, but in the fundamental concept we were very much like them. The\nJapanese expect to find seasonal produce in the dish, and so do we. They expect\nvalue to be given to raw food. They also expect there to be contrast, that it\nisn\u2019t flat food. That there is cold, savory, spicy, and that you find this in\nthe dish in a balanced and measured way. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do you think\nJapanese and Catalan cultures have aspects in common?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are lots\nof common aspects in terms of concept, but at the table there are differences.\nIf we had to define our culture with a color and a texture, ours would be brown\nand thick, and theirs would be light and transparent. We like theirs and they\nlike ours because we\u2019re similar in the values we expect to find in food.\nMoreover, Catalonia and Japan are two blue points in the world in health and\nwith longevity of life related to diet. There are many aspects that connect us.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How has\ngastronomy evolved in the past 15 years?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s evolved so much and it will\nstill evolve even more. Society now looks at chefs in a new light. When I went\nacross the street, from the store to Sant Pau, the people who loved me were\nsaddened because they didn\u2019t understand that I would close myself in a kitchen\nand what I was seeing was a world of freedom and creativity. These same people\nnow stop me in the street and they\u2019re happy because in their families there\u2019s a\nchild training in the world of hospitality. Society knows that eating well\nmeans looking after yourself. The future is heading towards pre-prepared and\npre-cooked foods. So, if society knows the value of foods, it will be able to\ndemand quality from those who make processed food. Education is key. There are\nconfused consumers who settle for anything.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How do you\nsee the future of gastronomy in our country?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most amazing pages are yet\nto be written. There are very well-qualified young people who have been trained\nhere and in the rest of the world. The farmers and fishermen, too. Think about\nit: Gastronomy is the nice postcard that shows us off to the world. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Young chefs that have the luck of the path that you all have started…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, there was a\nrevolution without anyone having arranged it. In many cases, we\u2019ve dedicated\nour lives to being original and appealing and offering high-quality produce,\nthe media has kept analyzing it and we\u2019ve been lucky that the audience has been\nreceptive and has given us encouragement. These three points continue building\non themselves and young people look at us and will improve on everything we\u2019ve\ndone. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What are your\nplans for the short and long term?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We always get\nlots of interesting proposals, but I\u2019ll never join any project that doesn\u2019t\nfeel the same respect that we feel for our industry. I don\u2019t know what will\nhappen in the future. Think about it: Our plans didn\u2019t include going to Japan\nor coming to Barcelona, and that\u2019s what happened in the end. Life is full of\nsurprises. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

How would you\ndefine your professional career in just one word?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fortunate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A little taste<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The best time\nfor savoring a good wine?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

With good\ncompany, at any time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A song to\naccompany a wine.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Anything by\nJoaquin Sabina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Somewhere\nyou\u2019d get lost.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Mimosa\ngarden where we are right now.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What do you\ndo in your spare time?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Write and draw.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One flaw and\none virtue.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A flaw that is\nat the same time a virtue: perseverance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What did you\nwant to be when you were little?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

To have an\nartistic career.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And now that\nyou\u2019re grown up?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

To enjoy the\ncareer I\u2019ve had.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Carme Ruscalleda (Sant Pol de Mar, 1952) is synonymous with cooking, passion, vitality. We had the chance to speak with her in the garden of Barcelona\u2019s Hotel Mandarin Oriental, about her life after closing Sant Pau, the elements shared by both Catalonia and Japan, and the luck of finding the right \u201ctravel companions\u201d to achieve […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1251,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[25],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2583","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-inspiring-people"],"yoast_head":"\n\u201cGastronomy is the nice postcard that shows us off to the world\u201d - Jean Leon<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/en\/gastronomy-is-the-nice-postcard-that-shows-us-off-to-the-world\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u201cGastronomy is the nice postcard that shows us off to the world\u201d - Jean Leon\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Carme Ruscalleda (Sant Pol de Mar, 1952) is synonymous with cooking, passion, vitality. 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