{"id":1991,"date":"2018-06-19T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2018-06-19T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/2018\/06\/19\/escala-12-xina-vi-ve\/"},"modified":"2023-08-11T12:24:14","modified_gmt":"2023-08-11T12:24:14","slug":"escala-12-xina-vi-ve","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/ca\/escala-12-xina-vi-ve\/","title":{"rendered":"Escala 12: Xina. El vi que ve?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>La mateixa immensitat geogr\u00e0fica i idiosincr\u00e0sia cultural del gegant asi\u00e0tic dificulta una precisa lectura, fidedigna i en profunditat, de l&#8217;estat de salut del m\u00f3n de la vinya i l&#8217;elaboraci\u00f3 de vi a la Xina.<\/p>\n<p>Per\u00f2 el que s\u00ed \u00e9s una realitat innegable \u00e9s que el vertigin\u00f3s augment del consum de vi per c\u00e0pita \u00e9s una met\u00e0fora del proc\u00e9s d&#8217;obertura cap a occident i un signe de la liberalitzaci\u00f3 econ\u00f2mica del pa\u00eds.<\/p>\n<p>Les fredes dades ens revelen unes xifres que evidencien la transformaci\u00f3 de la Xina respecte al seu model de producci\u00f3 vin\u00edcola (Font OIV):<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>M\u00e9s de 13 milions d&#8217;hectolitres<\/li>\n<li>A prop de les 600,000 hect\u00e0rees de superf\u00edcie conreada<\/li>\n<li>6\u00e8 productor mundial de vi<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Malgrat el sorprenent de la magnitud de les xifres, no deixa de ser curi\u00f3s que la Xina encara quedi fora en l&#8217;imaginari del winelover i sigui observada com un pa\u00eds netament importador, que ho \u00e9s. Encara que, potser, molt aviat, aquest fet canvi\u00ef, atenent al incessable desenvolupament de la cultura de la vinya gr\u00e0cies a les inversions i l&#8217;experi\u00e8ncia de les m\u00e9s prestigioses bodegues europees,<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-22607\" src=\"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/athena-lam-100455-unsplash-850x565.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"850\" height=\"565\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>L&#8217;evoluci\u00f3 del consum del vi<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>La idiosincr\u00e0sia cultural i la liberalitzaci\u00f3 econ\u00f2mica modelen unes pautes de consum que obeeixen a factors culturals comuns en r\u00e8gims acabats d&#8217;obrir al m\u00f3n. D&#8217;una altra manera no es podria explicar que, tot i les xifres esmentades anteriorment, el 75% del vi consumit \u00e9s de producci\u00f3 local.<\/p>\n<p>D&#8217;acord amb les dades d&#8217;un estudi realitzat per l&#8217;ICEX al 2016, la Xina \u00e9s el cinqu\u00e8 consumidor de vi del m\u00f3n, si b\u00e9 el consum per c\u00e0pita dista molt, a dia d&#8217;avui, dels est\u00e0ndards europeus.<\/p>\n<p>Resulta paradoxal que un pa\u00eds tan ric en superf\u00edcie de vinyes sigui l&#8217;importador per excel\u00b7l\u00e8ncia del M\u00f3n Vi. Potser aquest fet s&#8217;expliqui des de la gran desigualtat entre classes que hi ha a la Xina i en com les noves classes mitjanes, impulsores del consum, perceben al vi europeu en relaci\u00f3 al prestigi social.<\/p>\n<p>La desmesurada demanda de vins de Bordeus a finals del passat segle va generar una forta inversi\u00f3 d&#8217;empreses Xineses a la regi\u00f3, portant a un proc\u00e9s d&#8217;inflaci\u00f3 que va esquitxar els preus del vi al m\u00f3n.<\/p>\n<p>Per aix\u00f2, la cabernet sauvignon, la merlot i la Carmenere dominaven els conreus ja iniciat al segle XXI, encara que als vins resultants els falt\u00e9s una mica de maduresa i els sobr\u00e9s roure. Caldria esperar fins al 2010 perqu\u00e8 sorgissin els primers vins de qualitat contrastada.<\/p>\n<p>Per\u00f2 si b\u00e9 la curiositat i l&#8217;est\u00edmul pel vi s&#8217;estenen gradualment de les principals ciutats cap a l&#8217;interior, per tot el territori xin\u00e8s; el cultiu de la vinya es veu condicionat per la pr\u00f2pia vast\u00edssima geografia del pa\u00eds, aix\u00ed com pel seu dif\u00edcil i extrem clima. Vegem-ho.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-22601\" src=\"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/vincent-guth-430440-unsplash-850x567.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"850\" height=\"567\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>La geografia del vi a la Xina<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>L&#8217;enormitat geogr\u00e0fica de la Xina ens revela una quantitat sorprenent de s\u00f2ls i latituds diferents. No obstant aix\u00f2, com veurem, les esperances de la viticultura xinesa descansen en tres regions que es signifiquen com el seu passat, present i futur del m\u00f3n de la vinya.<\/p>\n<p>El clima representa un problema: l&#8217;interior compta amb els severs rigors continentals fent dels hiverns g\u00e8lids el major inconvenient. A la costa, especialment a la zona centre i sud, els habituals monsons impossibiliten qualsevol verema &#8230; Llavors, qu\u00e8 ens queda?<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-22613\" src=\"https:\/\/jeanleon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/vidar-nordli-mathisen-556146-unsplash-850x540.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"850\" height=\"540\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Shandong: Passat i present del vi xin\u00e8s<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>La pen\u00ednsula de Shandong, a la costa est, ha estat identificada des de finals del segle XIX com la regi\u00f3 m\u00e9s adequada per al cultiu de vinyes de varietats europees. A l&#8217;abric d&#8217;un clima mar\u00edtim, les vinyes no requereixen de protecci\u00f3 davant les gelades del hivern i descansen en vessants ben drenats, orientats al sud.<\/p>\n<p>Els primeres cellers i les primeres vinyes de l&#8217;era moderna es van assentar a Shandong, on avui la quarta part dels cellers xinesos segueixen la seva producci\u00f3. Changyu va ser l&#8217;elaborador pioner i segueix sent el m\u00e9s destacat de la regi\u00f3.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ningxia, una aposta de futur guanyadora<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>En els vessants situats entre les muntanyes <strong>Helan i el Riu Groc, al nord de Ningxia<\/strong> es troben les vinyes cridades a ser testimonis en l&#8217;elaboraci\u00f3 de vins de qualitat.<\/p>\n<p>Tan \u00e9s aix\u00ed que les autoritats de la prov\u00edncia de Ningxia estan fomentant de manera activa la inversi\u00f3 de cellers estrangers i xinesos a la regi\u00f3 amb l&#8217;objectiu de convertir-la en la punta de llan\u00e7a de la imatge dels nous i prestigiosos vins xinesos.<\/p>\n<p>El m\u00f3n del vi es va sorprendre quan al 2011 un Jiabeilan 2009 de Ningxia va obtenir un important trofeu en els Decanter World Wine Awards.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Hunnan: Els vins del sostre del m\u00f3n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>La prov\u00edncia de Hunnan, a l&#8217;extrem sud, prop del Tibet, es posiciona com el que podr\u00edem anomenar la nova frontera del m\u00f3n del vi.<\/p>\n<p>Vinyes ubicades a m\u00e9s de 3,000 metres d&#8217;altitud on el celler Shangri-la elabora un cabernet de primera, her\u00e8ncia del bon fer i experi\u00e8ncia australiana.<\/p>\n<p>El problema a qu\u00e8 s&#8217;enfronten els cellers en aquestes a\u00efllades regions \u00e9s l&#8217;enorme dist\u00e0ncia que separa les vinyes de la poblaci\u00f3, amb la conseq\u00fcent dificultat per trobar m\u00e0 d&#8217;obra que realitzi les tasques de la vinya i verema.<\/p>\n<p>L&#8217;agitaci\u00f3 actual que trobem a la Xina de la m\u00e0 del aperturisme i la liberalitzaci\u00f3 econ\u00f2mica est\u00e0 accelerant un dificult\u00f3s ordenament del sector del vi.<\/p>\n<p>Si b\u00e9 el govern i el capital estranger copen bona part del past\u00eds, cada dia sorgeixen elaboradors privats que tracten d&#8217;obrir-se cam\u00ed en latituds remotes i amb un esperit de sacrifici envejable que, m\u00e9s prest que tard, obtindr\u00e0 la seva recompensa en forma de vins excelsos amb accent local. I nosaltres ho veurem.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Rafa Moreno<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>La mateixa immensitat geogr\u00e0fica i idiosincr\u00e0sia cultural del gegant asi\u00e0tic dificulta una precisa lectura, fidedigna i en profunditat, de l&#8217;estat de salut del m\u00f3n de la vinya i l&#8217;elaboraci\u00f3 de vi a la Xina. Per\u00f2 el que s\u00ed \u00e9s una realitat innegable \u00e9s que el vertigin\u00f3s augment del consum de vi per c\u00e0pita \u00e9s una [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":905,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[22],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1991","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-vi"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Escala 12: Xina. 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